A Feast of the Senses in Bangkok

Golden glow of the Buddhas, Relaxation of Thai Massage, and Running in the Rain

“Thailand is on the top of my bucket list!” My coworker-turned-close-friend declared in 2019. Five years later, we were at the Singapore Airport with two other friends, eagerly awaiting the final leg of the flight to Bangkok.

We landed in Bangkok and arrived at our hotel, a Ramada Plaza by Wyndham Bangkok Menam Riverside. Our sights were immediately set on two things— dinner and a massage. Dinner because we desperately craved Pad Thai. Massage because— 18 hours in coach.

We walked outside of our hotel and were immediately met with swarms of mopeds and the honking of horns. We walked in a small group down the street and found an unassuming-looking restaurant beside the main road. We indulged in the long-awaited Pad Thai and wearily yet excitedly returned to the hotel for our massages.

Over the years, massage became an occasional decadent treat. High-altitude massage in Cusco, hot stone massage in Taos, and local franchise massage during the first week of graduate school.

This massage was by far the most intense.

Any lingering stress or contortion from the flight was gone as a beautiful Thai woman, easily less than 100 pounds, managed to work out every knot and kink in every muscle in my body. I left feeling very, very calm.

The (literal) cherry on top of the situation was a bowl of ice cream at the end, enhanced with dry ice for a steaming effect. All for the equivalent of USD 15. I was in my bliss. We fell asleep soundly and peacefully after the long flights and deep tissue massages.

The next morning, we joined the larger tour group at a local market. We wandered through Chinatown and the Indian Market. I jumped, terrified, as a rat ran past my feet. Took in the bright strings of flowers in pops of pink, yellow, and green. Watched in awe as a local street vendor created a flower through Thai Lotus folding, and taught us to do the same.

Then we spent the afternoon at Wat Po, surrounded by the 150 ’ x50’ giant, reclining, golden Buddha. We dripped in sweat under the midday Thai sun, seeking out shade and high speed on our fans. We listened intently as our guide explained the symbolism in the mother-of-pearl inlay on the statue’s feet, as well as the various statues and pagodas throughout.

On return to the hotel, we set out for the local “Lady Boys” show at Calypso Bangkok, laughing and cheering at the acts of show tunes and tap dancing. A torrent of rain flowed as we impulsively bought colorful umbrellas, running and laughing through stretches of lightning and rumbling thunder on the way back to the Ramada.

We arrived with a breath of relief back at the hotel, soaked to the bone but enjoying every second.

The next day, we decided to visit another temple. We visited Wat Phra Kaew, or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Although I am not Buddhist, I am a Christian, but I deeply appreciate learning about other cultures and religions. Seeing the elaborate jade Buddha and witnessing the reverence of the Thai worshippers filled me with awe and reverence for my deity.

After a brief dip in the cool hotel pool, washing off the sweat of the day, we prepared for the evening dinner cruise.

On that third night, our group gathered with hundreds of other people for a Chao Phraya River Cruise. This cruise provided live music, dancing, and an elaborate buffet of international cuisine, all against the backdrop of local temples and the Royal Naval Fort. The sun set, and our boat passed underneath the towering golden cables of the Rama VIII Bridge as the live music swelled into a traditional Thai folk song.

Perched on the bow-bench surrounded by music and the stunning glow of Bangkok city lights, I watched a middle-aged Thai man dance like absolutely nobody was watching. Part of me wished to join in, a fellow traveler in celebratory solidarity.

What a gift it was to be there, in that moment. Years of talk about going to Bangkok, uncertain if this dream would ever come to fruition. Finally, in Bangkok, taking in every surreal moment with each passing dance move, each glimmer of monumental gold flashing in the city lights.

The day-to-day grind at home created a sense of autopilot, which was difficult to escape. Bangkok’s rich beauty and culture created effortless grounding.

We fell asleep for one last night in Thailand. I was excited for the days to come— a flight to Siem Riep, and over ten days in Vietnam— but was ready to try on this newfound feeling of being present. I snuggled into the cozy feather-filled comforter, closed my eyes to the city lights, and hoped for glittering Thai-filled dreams.